>More Rib Stitches

>I finally knitted the second sleeve of the punch tuck rib sweater so I’m hoping to get it sewn up tomorrow.

After I’d finished knitting the sleeve I decided to have a go at pin tuck rib. It’s very easy to do, the instructions are in the ribber manual. I used a fine yarn and had the beds set up for double rib. After working the cast on rows I left the cam lever on slip, main bed tension on 2, ribber tension on 3, both side levers back then knitted 10 rows. Then I knitted 4 rows with the side levers to the front. Then repeated these 14 rows. My attempt came out looking just the same as the photograph in the manual.

So then I had a go at punch pin tuck, first with card R-2 10, then with card R-2 9.
The machine was set for double rib again then after the cast on rows the card was inserted and locked, cam lever on slip, side levers back, main bed tension on 3 and ribber tension on 4. One row was knitted then the card was unlocked and I carried on knitting. This time the results weren’t as good:

Punch Pin Tuck Rib More Punch Pin Tuck Rib
In the photos in the manual the pattern seems to stick out more so it looks like ridges, mine are just flat. Maybe the yarn I used was too fine, I don’t know.

There was another rib stitch I wanted to try, the book just calls it ‘variation of English rib’. It looks like a checkerboard pattern and I just had to have a go at it:

english rib
It’s not difficult to do but if I was trying to make a sweater using this pattern I think it would be easy to get it wrong if I was distracted. Once the needles and carriage are set up properly you have to do 2 rows at H5, 2 rows at H6, repeat those four rows four times, 2 rows at H7, 2 rows at H6, repeat those four rows four times. Those 32 rows form the pattern.

There are three or four more rib stitches I want to try but I’m saving them for another day.

Talk to you later,


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