Testing The Toyota K510

The needles cleaned up very well and though they don’t look shiny and new, the majority of them are smooth and perfectly usable:

needles

The black spots don’t look pretty but they don’t affect the way the needles work at all.

I worked through the stitch patterns in the instruction manual, here they are in the order that I knitted them.

Tuck stitch, plain side and purl side:

tuck stitch plain side tuck stitch purl side

 

Thread knitting.  I wondered what this was going to look like as the black and white photo in the manual didn’t really show it very well. Now that I’ve tried it you can see that it is knit weaving.

thread knitting

 

Tuck stitch colour combination knitting – is this usually called two colour tuck?
Plain side and purl side:

tuck stitch colour combination plain side tuck stitch colour combination purl side

 

Tuck pattern stitch, plain side and purl side:

tuck pattern plain side tuck pattern purl side

 

Tuck colour combination stitch – another two colour tuck?
Plain side and purl side:

tuck colour combination plain side tuck colour combination purl side

 

Raised tuck pattern stitch:

raised tuck pattern

 

Continuous tuck stitch:

continuous tuck stitch

 

Slip loop tuck stitch, it’s just slip stitch:

slip loop tuck

 

Slip loop tuck colour combination stitch – would you usually call this two colour slip?

slip loop tuck colour combination

 

Open pattern knitting – I thought this would be tuck lace but now I don’t think it is.
Plain side and purl side:

open pattern plain side open pattern purl side

 

 

So that’s what it can do. The patterning is done by adjusting the knobs on the carriage and sinker plate. As I was knitting with it I was reminded of the Knitmaster 302 which requires you to alter the buttons and dials to do the patterning. You need to concentrate! If you lose your place when you’re reading the pattern it can all go wrong.

I’ll have to figure out if there’s a way to do any kind of fair isle on this machine or if I would have to settle for the two colour tuck or slip.

All in all I’m very pleased with this little old machine. The carriage is very light and moves easily back and forth across the bed. I’ll have to get used to using a cast on comb which is something I haven’t had to use with my Knitmaster and Silver Reed machines.

Now I’ll have to decide what to knit on it, something simple to start off with I think.

Advertisements
This entry was posted in machine knitting. Bookmark the permalink.

14 Responses to Testing The Toyota K510

  1. Morag Walker says:

    Hi Susy they are gorgeous. Thank you for sharing this with us. Morag

    • susyranner says:

      You’re welcome. I did enjoy playing with my new toy.

      • Rosie says:

        Can you tell mewhat I am doing wrong. After doing waste knitting I knitted in the ravelling chord
        and then when I tried to do a row with the base yarn all the stitches came off.

        • susyranner says:

          Did you make sure the ravel cord was in the needle hooks and not behind the latches before you knitted the row with the main yarn?

  2. kim says:

    Hi Suzy what lovely samples. How did you clean the needles? .

    • susyranner says:

      I soaked them in a tub of DW40 which seems to be just the same as WD40 but made by a different manufacturer. I then rubbed them all with a fine wire wool to smooth out any rough bits before drying them all with a clean cloth.

  3. Maureen says:

    Just curious about the size of the needles. Are they the same as any of your other machines?

    • susyranner says:

      They are different to the Knitmaster/Silver Reed needles as they have a little bit that sticks out the back, 90 degrees to the needle shaft. I couldn’t swap them between machines.

  4. yvonne says:

    Looking really good.Love the tuck colour combination.

  5. steel breeze says:

    I may have some needles with the measurements 13.8, 5.6, 1.7 – yours for a donation. Will have to check when I am home on Friday. Let me know if you want them (they are no use to me!)

    • susyranner says:

      Thanks Jane. I don’t need any at the moment but if I need any in the future I’ll give you a shout.

      • haley says:

        hi suzy I have a 510 I find it too complicated to read them patterns in the book any helpful suggestions would be very welcome

        • susyranner says:

          If you look on the first chart on page 13 and start at row one, the black dots indicate which needles to push forward into E position, so in this case it’s every fourth needle. Where it shows the drawing of the carriage, F and J are the side levers which both need to be pushed back to the ‘I’ position. G and I are the levers on the carriage which need to be set on plain. The lever at the back of the carriage can be set to empty.T refers to the thread knitting knobs on the metal sinker plate. These operate the round brushes and in this case should be set to ‘O’ which is the black dot on the sinker plate. L is the yarn in the yarn feeder, which is colour A all the way through this pattern. Now follow the chart from the bottom, moving the carriage in the direction of the arrow. So row 1 goes from right to left, 2 goes from left to right, 3 goes from right to left. Before knitting row 4 you need to move the side levers on the carriage towards you so they are on the dot symbol, then knit the row from left to right. Before knitting the next row you will need to select the needles marked with a dot on the chart and move them forward to the E position. You will also need to move the side levers on the carriage back to the ‘I’ position. Just keep following the chart, moving the side levers where indicated and selecting the needles where indicated. It sounds more complicated than it is but once you understand the chart it is easy.

Comments are closed.